Waves and Breakers

"deep calls to deep in the roar of your waterfalls;
all your waves and breakers have swept over me."

When you sit on a surfboard and face massive waves stacking up overhead, you have three options:

First, get up and ride. Try not to sound too pleased with yourself as you go.

Second, dive streamlined through the base of the wave so the powerful wash doesn't knuckle you into submission. Enjoy feeling the irresistable, persistent force blast over your body rather than feel upset you didn't catch the wave - there'll be another one right behind it.

Third, panic and get knuckled into submission, lose which way is up, register thinking you'll never breathe air again, surface just in time to see the next wave wall up, take a fast, deep breath in, duck, knuckle, repeat cycle until set has passed, wash up to shore and wonder why the lifeguards didn't come to your rescue.

I've tried all three and learned this: when faced by life's massive breakers either ride them well or take responsibility for whatever else happens next. Either way, try not to panic. Inside every huge wave is a little tiny one turning over its regular rhythm.